A phrase that I've heard used around fashion blogs is " Eastern Bloc". It is used to describe a new aesthetic in fashion for harsh lines, clothing emblazoned with cyrillic letters and allusions to socialism. The aesthetic is seen as a modern symbol for those countries shut off to the rest of the world under Russia during the cold war. Then here comes the question: by making use of the " Eastern Bloc" aesthetic, aren't we just glorifying the oppression of those countries that were in the Eastern Bloc? I believe the use of "Eastern Bloc" aesthetics is similar to the concept of " Ostalagie" which defines the nostalgia for East Germany despite the regime and harshness, instead only focusing on the happiness of youth at the time and the positives. In this case, it seems the nostalgia is coming from those who were not even present in the Eastern Bloc, a kind of fake nostalgia. This seems superficial, to look back at a past you don't even know, it shows an ignorance of the reality of Cold War Eastern Bloc. It's difficult to explore the east through aesthetics without resorting to stereotypes of Iron curtains and concrete buildings. However, I don't believe that there is total disregard for the history of the Eastern Bloc. Rather, I think it is a endearing look at times gone by , and a cry for a change from our digital world where everything is accessible to us. For those who did not grow up in the Post Soviet state of cultural change, it's something completely new to us, ready for us to explore now with the abundance of information that was hidden until the end of Soviet Russia. For those who grew up in the Eastern Bloc, and witnessed its end, it's a hark back to their childhoods and memories of being young,which are bittersweet no matter where you were. The Post Soviet times, when the Eastern Bloc was flooded with advertising attacking the uniform orderly landscape , greatly influence the Eastern Bloc aesthetic. They give a feeling of " a teenager who grew up in the Eastern Bloc, who has access to all these new devices but still harbour a sense of loss for the days of socialism and community, whether they enjoyed them or not". This is shown in not only the fashion, but the personal history of current Eastern European fashion designers, such as Demna Gvasalia. " I pierced myself, listened to hip-hop; I was almost hyperventilating. I had to discover it all at the same time" - Gvasalia to I-D on moving from Eastern Bloc Georgia to West Germany as a teenager. His hunger for the West is repeated in an entire generation of those in the Post Soviet times , that we as always Westerners cannot understand. The growing trend of the Cold War aesthetic is just a product of being fascinated with that which we do not understand.
Eastern Bloc aesthetics can be seen as a fetishisation of the order and conformity demanded of socialism , making it mere fodder for us Westerners to visually appreciate the socialist constructivism while disregarding its dark past. On the other hand, it is a way of coming to terms with the joining of the two opposing cultures by representing them through clothing as well as bringing awareness to the realities of Eastern Bloc living ( I know I read more about it out of curiosity). Which is it? That's up to your personal opinion. Sanaa Please comment and tell me what you thought, or tweet me! Share if you enjoyed with the tabs on the left~ |
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